Shoes. Burlesque Shoes. (Burlesque Costume) (Burlesque Performance)
Your shoes should look right with the rest of your costume when you're onstage. Students often ask me what the best shoes are for burlesque, and as always, there are many options depending on an individual's needs. Heels are expected but definitely not required! Actual dance shoes, the choice of most burlesque performers, are described at the end of the article.
Some shoe options less common among burlesque performers:
Bare feet
I've been deeply involved with fetish, so to me bare feet are a gorgeous reveal, as on Lili St. Cyr, above. Many dancers make magic in bare feet from the beginning to the end of a number. Just be aware that there are haters of the bare feet. It's true that bare feet may be distracting from your aesthetic. Also, bar and theater floors can be dirty. If you're performing in a restaurant, some people may not want bare feet where they eat. Still, if you’re a happy dancer in bare feet and a sad dancer in shoes, go bare. The haters will hate it, but they probably weren't going to buy tickets to your show anyway. Also, I have seen people dwell for years on unasked-for criticisms about their bare feet, so haters often get hated back. Haters beware: People without shoes can still kick your ass.
Above: Me doing my firebird number at Coney Island, 2006. Photo by Ed Barnas.
Half-Soles
There are various kind of footwear, both substantive and decorative, for people who want the freedom of bare feet but care about a specific aesthetic. These can be purchased already decorated or plain and ready for your own creative embellishments. These are particularly great on burlesque acrobats.
Ballet shoes
They are romantic, and suitable mostly for pointe numbers. (Please mind that dancing en pointe takes a lot of training to do safely!) Rhinestoning is optional, but if the rest of your costume is or looks bespoke, it makes sense that your shoes should match. Shoes above are from Etsy.
Department store shoes
They look like department store shoes. This can be good or bad. Up to you.
Louboutins, customized or otherwise
Dita wears them, and her taste is the gold standard for modern burlesque showgirls. Above are her fetish boots. They are worn by few burlesque dancers because they are expensive, and not always comfortable for dancing even when not custom made. However, if you can afford them and you can move in them, go for it.
A few styles of shoes most commonly worn by burlesque performers:
Character shoes
These have haters, since they are intentionally designed to not be noticeable, but they are classics and are ideal for what they are designed for: theater dance. As with pointe shoes, for burlesque use, embellishment can make them much more glamourous. They are usually affordable, although the top of the line will cost you. Character shoes are favored by the Rockettes, and who are we to question their footwear?
Footwear that suits the rest of your costume, like sneakers for an 80s workout number, boots for a firefighter number, etc., are always a good choice. This can be crucial in cosplay burlesque, as on Indigo Blue, above. They can be made campy with rhinestones or with higher heels than they'd have for any practical purpose.
Pollys
Originally designed for go-go dancers in the 60s, these are my personal favorite for walkaround because of the comfort and quick change. I've been obsessed with these for decades and own at least a dozen pairs, including special designs by Patricia Fields, Betsey Johnson, and Pleasers' Genie from their Bordello line. I buy a lot of deadstock, and for me they're worth having on search alert. Also, I can make them more secure (you can't back up safely in a mule!) by twisting a garter around the heel and my ankle, or adding Pleasers' detachable straps.
Pleasers Acrylics
The very symbol of stripper pride. As much as I love my Pollys, I have to say there is nothing like that glass slipper of entrepreneurialism, no prince required (although I have danced to quite a lot of Prince in them). I can't handle anything above seven inches anymore, but when I slip on a pair of these lucite babies I literally feel like I'm stepping up in the world. Balanced and padded, they are the Skechers of the stripper world. The photo above is actually from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum, and it's sweet to know they appreciate our style as high art!
Tango/Ballroom shoes
When in doubt, this is the shoe to try! It is the shoe of choice among many burlesque performers. They come in a range of heel heights so they can work for both people who move best on lower heels and people who want that showgirl height. Many dancers who do a lot of spins and splits swear by these because they have suede soles, so you have flexibility and traction. For me the only drawback is that I'd prefer a regular buckle to the quick release many of the inexpensive ones have. The ones above are custom made. Also, they aren't meant to be worn offstage, so bring your Pollys.
And one more pro tip: if you find a shoe that really works for you, you can buy it in multiple colors to go with multiple costumes!
Ultimately, the number one rule is, wear whatever the fuck you want! But for the love of burlesque, please fucking wear shoes in which you can actually move freely. Just be sure you create your choreography and rehearse in the shoes you'll be performing in, and everything will be fine.
Oh, and take the stickers off the bottoms, please!
And point your toes whenever possible.
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